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Sulky - a ponygirl-powered cart - cross country version

Author: (c)2002 Tom

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(23.05.2002.) This article describes the design and manufacturing of a cross-country sulky, a bit heavier and more robust version of my original sulky. There are lots of ponyplay pictures scattered around this site, so the design part of this articlewill include only pictures of technical design of the sulky. I will addsome more pictures after the weekend, after the sulky is complete. At the time of writing this, 75% of the construction is complete. (25.05.2002 - the sulky is complete -I've added a second part to the article, including a fewpictures of from our rides). (28.05. <- there is a description of our friendly encounter with two policemen who were sent to investigate our outdoor ponyplay scene; see the end of this article.)I will also disclose whether the whole thing moves or not - you never know until you have tried :-)

There are three related "ponyplay theory" articles I put to my sitethis month; I recommend you to read them if you are interested in the"how to", i.e. the background of ponyplay as a kind of bdsm, and therespective commands which we use: my article sulky - general overhaul, whose second (and slightly longer) part discusses the commands used in dressage, sulky- and shoulder-riding, Kai's articles pony dressage and pony+sulky

Picture of status as of 23. 05. 2002 - in fact, as of (24.05.), also the seat is finished and the whole structure has two coatings of primer - but the picture above shows the sulky photographed yesterday evening. I will now describe what I did in the recent three days. Note the colour linesin the picture - they mark the main parts of the structure and havethe same colour in all the following pictures) - they should helpyou to see which part is which; it is hard to recognize the parts inseveral pictures shot from different angles...

To begin: why another sulky? The original one serves us well forover three years,and after an overhaul, having wider tyres, it is more stable on gravel,bumpy terrain etc. Anyway, it has two known weaknesses: when driving fast to a curve, it has a tendency to overthrow (the wheels are only 55 cm from each other), and the bicycle wheels are too weak - they arebending to sides (this weakness we feared the most when we began riding. Having learned that you can safely drive the sulky with thosewheels, we stopped worrying about the issue, but during the overhaul ofthe sulky, I've installed brakes, and the issue of rims moving left/right now again needed solving.)

Targets of the new design therefore were: to build a sulky which would be a bit wider (to be safe when turning in fast trot), would havethe same lenght (and preferably include some design tricks to fitin our car along with the old sulky), not much heavier, without brakes(we have tried that and the brakes are not used much, so let's get ridof them), and finally, when designing a new sulky, why not invest insolid, robust wheels and suspension forks?

The old sulky was welded from 4 meters of steel box profile 20x30 mm, with 2 mm thick wall. This profile weights ca. 1.7 kg/m, i.e. thesulky frame weights ca. 7 kg. Add to this two fixed forks (you can weld the forks from steel profiles, but original forks look much nicer, are made of much higher grade of steel, so they are lightweight; also, proper machining of the ends of the forks to allow fast attachment of wheel axes (lever-action wheel hubs) would requirelots of time, as the ends of the forks must be machined very precisely. You could think about using special wheels with proper bearings in the hubs which require no forks, as they are only pushed onto short and thickwheel axes, which are welded directly onto the sulky's frame (which inthis case must include a U/V-shape (when you look at it from the side), so that the part of the frame to whichthe wheel axes are welded, runs only 50 cm above the ground. But this iscompletely different design - if you have such wheels, or if you wantto buy such sulky, www.deferre.co.uk was a site by two girls whom I served. They were manufacturing and selling sulkies, with wheels similar to the type used on disabled persons' carts. Actually, these wheels were sold at "Home Depot" stores, for building light car trailers. I was helpingat DeFerre's workshop, cutting, welding and painting their and Sir Guy's sulkies, so you can trust me that we have practically tested that 18 mm steel round rod can be used as a wheel axe without risk of bendingeven during cross-country riding. Anything weaker than 18 mm massive steelrod will be bent if used as a wheel axe attached to the sulky'sframe on only one end.

The new sulky uses suspension forks and therefore must include afew more steel profiles for the driver to rest his/her legs on (it is notpossible to connect the inner bottom ends of the forks with a crossmember, as each fork moves independently). Insteadof 18 kg, the sulky now weights approx. 28 kg.

The old sulky had steel rims, but modern alloy rims (the quality ones, double-walled and Mg-alloyed, not the cheap ones, made of plain aluminium!) are much lighter and at the same time stronger. The old sulky was probably the simplestand the lightest in the world - it included only two shafts, three cross bars (at the front and at the rear end of a seat, the third crossbar between the inner lower ends of the forks), two forks and small eyelets welded onto the shafts, to which the harness and the wrist cuffs are attached. The design was very similar to horse racing sulkies,which was a design feature which I particularly liked. All other sulkiesI've seen have too long shafts so that the pony is too far from thedriver.

Suspension forks can move independently of each other. Resting oflegs at a cross bar located below the seat is no longer possible. Welding of anything to the forks would require a MIG (metal in gas)welder, because the forks are made of aluminium alloy. Therefore, I hadtwo options: to make a real racing sulky, where the driver's legs reston short bars welded to the shafts (preferably on the outer side, so that the pony cannot be hurt). This approach is the most realistic, butI am not a pro-driver, and the position they are sitting in during the racesis very awkward. If you decide to go this way when designing your sulky,do not forget to move the seat 20-30 cm to the rear, because your legsstretched directly forward represent about 1/3 of your body weight (and you need your centre of gravity to be exactly above the wheel axles.

Another issue: all the sulkies which have seats at the wheel axle height (and you sit with your legs stretched forward) offer youonly a limited view of where you and your pony are going. It gets muchbetter with two ponies, 'cause you can look through the gap between them, but we do 99% of our scenes alone, so we have another pony in gear only rarely. And when driving fast and long rides, you just have to have a good view forward. Well, due to the position you would have to sit in, we decided not to go the first way. The second option is to sit with your legs under the seat, which is much more comfortable. In this case, the cross bar which serves as a legsupport must be welded to two inclined brackets, which connect it to the front ends of the seat. I cut, bent and welded the whole leg support (dark blue in the pictures) from one piece of metal. There is an arrow in one of the pictures - you can see that after cutting out a triangular piece of the profile, you can bend it. One of the four faces of the profile - namely the one facing out of the whole structure - is not cut so that it adds strength to the bent part and also the wholepart looks nicer this way.

The shafts (red) are the same as before, made of one piece of steel box profile, and have the same length (the aerial distance between theeyelet to which the harness attaches and the front edge of the seat - this means that the raw material must be longer). The shafts run forward AND UP from the seat, so that they form a sort of handles, which can beused in emergency. They resemble the brake lever handles on the old sulky, but without the brakes... Right after the "handle" part, the shafts are bent, and the angles between the seat and the handle part,as well as between the handle part and the rest of the shafts are almost the same, so that the front parts of the shafts are going slightlyup when the seat is exactly horizontal. The forks are inclined backwards against the seat, so when the forks are exactly vertical, the seat is slightly inclined to the rear and the shafts are rising even more. When riding, the forks are inlined slightly to the rear, so that the seat tends to push you back - this is intentional, because the rider can prevent him/her from falling backwards when speeding up very easily by using his/her legs and knees as supports, while stopping the horse can be forvarious reasons much more abrupt, and in this case you will be glad thatthe seat is inclined backward and prevents you from falling forward.There are two eyelets at the top face of the end of each shaft to attach the harness and the wrist cuffs to.

The seat is the same as before, made of plain wood plank. The seat issuspended by a straight front cross bar (yellow - connecting the forks attachments), and an angled rear support (dark blue), which resembles the rider's legs rest. I had therefore cut, bent and welded a similar metal part, which was then welded to the rear ends of the shafts. The middle part of the rear end of the seat forms a sort of backrest (only 30 mm high - the height of the profile), which reminds you that youhave reached the end of the seat and you should not move farther back.It effectively prevents you from falling, because you can brace your knees against the shafts and support your legs on the bottom crossbar (which runs down and slighly forward when the forks are vertical).

Forks attachments (green in the pictures) are massive, maybe too heavy, but I always prefer massive over dangerous. Welding of the forksonto the sulky's frame would be the easiest solution, just like on the oldsulky, but I wanted to have a removable connection between the parts, so that more sulkies fit into one car (03.06.2002 - this weekend we wentto Denmark to the PetWeek farm with another couple - their and our sulkies fit easily into one car). My intention was to have a sulky which can be transported along with another sulky (our old one or another couple's) to allow us to participate in events where there areseveral people, some of whom do not have their own ponyplay equipment and want to use our old gear to try out ponyplay). The forks attachmentsare made of 50x50x5 mm steel angle. They have ca. 40 degrees angle to the shafts - when the forks are vertical, the rear parts of the shaftsrun forward and up (to form the handles I was writing about above).

I had an option of buying two consoles which are normally used to hold the handle-bars on the bicycle, and use them for attachment ofthe forks. Consoles of old type (22 mm eyes on both ends; the modern ones have 1 inch eye on one end and hole for a shaft on the other endand are thus unusable) could be cut in half, the cut area would be weldedonto the flanks of the sulky above each other, and the fork would bethreaded through the eyes. Sadly, I have only managed to get one ofthese outdated consoles, and therefore I had to make the fork attachmentsof raw metal. Looking back, I am glad I was forced to do that, becausethe forks attachments are the most loaded part of the structure andeven now the forks tend to turn a little in the attachments - I bet theconsoles could break unexpectedly when passing a big hole in the track.

Forks attachments consist of two steel angles (spaced exactly 22 mm from each other, so that the top tube of the fork fits snugly), connected by a 22 mm wide steel strip welded to the sulky's flanks (outer edges of the shafts) and also welded to the "angle" of the steel angles. Imagine a view of the forks attachments from the fork's perspective - the cross section of the attachment looks like "TT" - the left part of the left T is formed by one angle, the right part of the right T is formed by the other angle, and the line between them is thesteel strip I was writing about. The fork is inserted to the inverted U between the T's and held in place by three screws which form the fourth edge of a box and also draw the edges of the angles together so that the fork is held in place. I used M8 x 45 screws with self-lockingnuts.

I had considered using stronger (8.8 grade) screws, because on the first tightening, the forks were loose in the attachments. After a fewrides with retightening of the screws, the forks are now set, so replacement of screws with stronger ones is not necessary (yet :-). After the very first test, I found out that the centre of gravityis too far behind the wheel axes, so I turned the forks 180 degrees. You can notice in the pictures that the wheel axes were originally in front of the forks, and now are behind the forks. The wheels should therefore self-adjust to the track if they accidentallyloosen and you don't notice :-).

Conclusion? Dimensions of invididual parts shown in the first picture linked from the beginning of this article:
Shafts (red): 120 cm before cutting and bending, 95 cm aerial distance between the harness eyelet and the front edge of the driver'sseat (90 cm on the old sulky)
Seat width (the yellow front cross member): 60 cm. 52 cm on old sulky. I.e. the new sulky has wheels set 8 cm wider. The ride is definitely more pleasant and also safer. The new sulky also looks MUCH more robust doe to increased wheel gauge. Needless to say that the suspension forks and 26 x 2.2 inch tyres (downhill bicycleracing specials with massive tread) add to the impression... The increase in weight is due to the longer consoles and oversized forksattachments - aluminium suspension forks are not heavier than fixedsteel forks, and high grade alloy rims are much lighter and at thesame time stronger than ordinary steel ones.
Rear end of the seat (light blue): 80 cm before bending, aerial distance of the ends after bending is 60 cm,the part is welded to the ends of the shafts, running in their original direction (exactly horizontal frame, until the front parts of the shafts were bent). Now, when the forks are exactly vertical, the rearconsole is running 40 degrees down behind the forks attachments. The front end of the seat, for the seat to be only slightly inclined back, is welded onto the bottom rear end of the forks attachment, ca. 8 cm belowthe connection of the shafts, rear bracket and the upper edge of the shafts attachment.
Leg rest bracket: 100 cm before bending, aerial distance of the ends after bending is 60 cm,the part is welded to the ends of the shafts, running down and slightlyforward, when the forks are exactly vertical.
Forks attachments (green): two pieces of 50x50x5 steel angle, the front part has 18 cm long front edge and 15 long rear edge, the rear part has 15 cm long front edge and 12 cm long rear edge. I.e. the upper edge of both profiles is welded to the outer face of the shafts, along the full length of the upper edge.
Screw holes in the forks attachments (the screws run parallel tothe shafts): 11 mm from outer edge, 20, 55 and 90 mm from the bottomedge of the forks attachment (use a vertical drill after the shafts attachment are welded onto the frame, so that the holes are exactly aligned on both parts of the forks attachment). The upper tubeof the fork must FIT VERY SNUGLY into the attachment. The forces actingon the wheels and forks are extreme. Even with a snug fit, you have totighten the screws, try to ride a few meters, and retighten the screws. It resembles the tightening of the saddle belts on a real horse :-)

To finish this article (until the sulky is painted and tested), I am adding two pictures of the design details: the first phase before the shafts were bent and the second phase, where the basic frame is completed.

If you cannot see some details which are obscured by the color lines, you can review the front view of the frame (without color lines - see for yourself whether you can instantly recognize which part is which).

24.05.2002
I have applied one coat of golden-yellow paint, fitted the forks (after scraping off the paint from the cuntact surfaces - the forks attachments must be made for tight fit when bare metal is touching, otherwise, the forks would be loose in the attachments), addedthe wooden seat, tested the sulky out (this was the time when I turned the forks 180 degrees to get the centre of gravity exactly above the wheels axles). The shafts now push slightly down, and you can varythe push by leaning slightly forward or backward in the seat.

25.05.2002

The following picture shows the completion of the sulky: top left - primer, top right - primer on the forks and cork pieces which I used to close the openings in the forks and at the front end of the shafts. There is now no opening in the metal structure. Thanks to the cork plugs, you can now put the sulky tothe corner of the garage without damaging the ends of the shafts or thefloor. The same goes for transporting the sulky in the boot of the car.
Bottom left - topcoat was applied. Bottom right - our first outdoorscene with the new sulky. Coarse gravel dressage rectangle, with a nearby asphalt track. Ideal testing ground. And ideal surrounding for a few kilometers' ride. :-)

The second picture shows the sulky with a harnessed pony. You can get the picture of the angles in the structure relative to the ground. Top bottom part shows a detail of our all-steel "connection" between the shafts and the flanks of the harness. The harness deserves more detaileddescription:

We wanted a slightly wider sulky not only to increase the stability, but also to be able to insert something between the shafts and the flanks of the harness. I thought I would use the rubber rings which areused when exercising horses on a lunge (similar to the rings you useto exercise your hands/palms), but in the end I thought they are too softand that the ends of the shafts could injure the pony (this could be prevented by long shafts whose ends would be well ahead the pony, but I just do not like the sulkies with a cross bar in front of the pony. They look like a tank to me. So instead of rubber, I used anothermetal ring and snap hook on each side. I considered using leather strapsfor harnessing the pony to the cart, just like the ladies of DeFerre use,but I used the metal parts in the end, because I like their "no compromise" look and I do NOT want the pony to be able to use any otherbody part than the waist to carry my weight (the cross bars in front ofthe pony are frequently used to push sulkies - this is not sport).So there are eyelets on the top of each shaft. There is a snap hook in the eyelet on the shaft, then a dia. 5 cm steel ring, then another snap hook and then a steel D-ring (dia. 5 cm) riveted to the flank of a weight lifters' belt we use as harness. There is ca. 15 cm of steel links between the pony's flanks and the shafts, but the whole set is under constant pull of the shafts, which act as springspulling the harness with the metal links taut.You have to attach one flank of the harness to one shaft, then useall your strength to close the snap hook on the other side. You get a taut connection, where the harness does not move on the pony's body. In my opinion, this is the only way how to ride a fewkilometers without the pony having chafed flanks under the harness.

We have tested the new sulky on 24.05.2002 in the evening. Before and after seeubg David Lynch's new movie - Mullholland Drive - we were at our favourite track. We had about half an hour before the movie, we first wanted to try whether the new sulky works fine or not. Anyway, there were a few people walking dogs at a nearby road, so any serious scene wasimpossible. A car passed us and we managed to hide behind our carbefore it got close - on our way, we passed a 20 cm deep ditch withoutany problems. So the new sulky showed that it truly is much more robustthan the old one. We would definitely turn over with the old sulky inthe same situation. We could also tear some spokes...

After the movie, it was clear that no passers-by will be around (it was11 p.m.). We drove to the same location and started our small ritualwe have before each pony scene. It was pitch black night and the fewcandles I lit were being extinguished by the breeze, but anyway wehad a 25 minutes scene with all the commands, turns, gaits etc. weenjoy and strive to master. The only problem was that the new sulky felttotally different than the old one. So the ride was not too pleasant. It was however interesting how fast we were getting used to the new sulky.

The next day in the morning, before a family event - a trip to a shooting competition I participated in - we had a free hour we decided to use for more pony training at an asphalt oval which is only 300 metersfrom our house. I have to add I wanted to buy the premises and found outwho owns it, and we were lucky to have that information when the policeappeared at the end of our nice little scene. I will also add right away that the premises cannot be bought, because a huge project is underway to build a facility there, but in the process of the respective negotiation, I got an offer of buying a house with two floors - 20 x 110 meters - a former cow shed - and last week I concluded the last negotiations, so I have almost closed the respective deal; if allgoes well, we will start rebuilding the premises this Summer. My planis to have a bigger dungeon there and the greatest ponyplay riding hallin Europe - right now, anyone's invited to our house and some peopleused that opportunity; I hope we will meet many more people after wehave bigger play facilities - why not have an event like the PetWeek in the Czech Republic?)

Back to our morning ride - some 20 minutes after we drove off, a van stopped ca. 100 meters from us and the driver started to unload old tyres and burn them (crazy - he was only 300 meters from a housing estate with 10 thousand inhabitants!). We have just passed the 200 m long straight section of the asphalt track, trotting lightly, when a person walking his dog passed by. Some 10 minutes later we were endingour scene, because we used up all the time we had that morning, and right after removing L's harness and bridle, a police car stoppedat the entrance of the premises. L went mad, but I just told herto relax, take deep breaths and let me talk. The following scene is not fiction - I know it is tempting to modify the reality ex post, when youare writing about it, but the sentences we exchanged with the policemen were so naturally cool, that I just have to write them down withoutany modication, which would only spoil the fun. I am publishing this record of the event because I want to oppose the views of those people who are constantly repeating, that outdoor bdsm is illegal, that you would have problems with police, being accused of limiting other person's freedom, or harassed/blackmailed. In my opinion, bdsm is legal when both partners agree, and that's the end of discussion.

Situation: we just completed a few laps on the asphalt track.(Bottom parts of the picture show details of fastening of the harness and wrist cuffs to the sulky's shafts. Similarly to other pictures on my web, the resolution is reduced to save space - you can visit us or invite us to your place to see the original photos, and that's the only option - I cannot publish 200-300 photographs, 0.5 MB each, on my site :-).

After a 30 minutes scene I remove the harness from L and a police car appears.
It stops at the entrance of the premises; in front of the "Private property" sign.
I say to L: "Calm down, the police cannot enter the premises - it is a private property - they will wait outside until we come out. Let me do the talking."
L is cuddling to herself, I take her around her arms and say nothing. The cops are waiting.
L finally lifts her head. I say: take the shafts of the sulky and pull it after me, towards the fence. Stop there and wait there.
The cops are waiting. We reach the fance. I scrape through a hole and say:
"Good morning. Do we have any problem here?"
"This is the Police. (well, would you guess that? :-) Your name?"
"(name and surname's been here 10 years earlier - no longer possible, removed)"
"Show me your ID card!"
"I am sorry I can't. I am living in the house over there."
I want to be easy with them - it is silly to provoke them. I keep smiling.
One cop looks at the other with a questioning look.
They are trying to take the situation under their control.
"Is it less than 50 meters?" (They are referring to an old communisticlaw which says you have to have your ID on you when you are not in theimmediate vicinity of your house)
"Oh well. I should have my ID on me. Sorry. I forgot it at home. But I have told you my name."
"Your birth number?" (Now they could call their base and verify theinformation I disclosed)
I tell them the truth, again (it is the safest way, in bdsm, in life, in general).
I have not noticed whether the other cop verified my data or not.Anyway the sentences are exchanged fast and before the other cop couldverify anything, we had cleared the whole issue out and the cops wereon my side - see below. Then they did not even ask for L's ID...
"You know you have to have your ID on you when you are more than 50 m from your house."
"I know, I am sorry. It is in the house. What type of problem we are now talking about?"
"What are you doing here?"
"Driving over a private land."
"What driving. Driving?"
"It is a sport." Tell them the least you have to tell, but never lie.
"A sport?"
"Yes, a sport."
"What is the name of the sport?" One cop - one question. To keep pressure, one cop asks one question, and the other question is asked by the other cop.
"Ponyplay."
"Ponyplay?"
"Yes, ponyplay." I do not want to get into details, so now it's the time for me to push them where I need to.
I repeat: "What type of problem we are now talking about? Did the guys in the van call you? Or anyone else felt it is necessary to call themorality squad?" I am carefully choosing my words to be able to detect from their answer whether the van's crew or the dog walking man called them. There were two people in the van and only one passer-by with the dog. I am almost sure the frustrated dog walker was the cause of the problem, but I want to be cocksure.
It seems the cops finally see I am no dangerous criminal, because they exchanged a faint smile.
"Well, the van is our second stop. Some called us that you two look like a typical case of limiting other person's freedom."
Oh well - now it is for sure - the old lad walking the dog was so frustrated - the dog barked in his small little concrete cubicle all night long, and the man now needed revenge. His old instincts from thecommunist era came back to life - let's report/let's denounce/let's be active in the only way such old lad can be active :-( The same happened to my neighbour - he only burnt a few apple tree branches, and the police was called by some idiot who envies that we have a garden near our house, while the inhabitantson concrete blocks-of-flats have none. This is so common in the Czech Republic; endless envy is one of the reasons why this beautiful country is all fu**ed up...
"I bet you will not tell me who called you?" In Czech, if someone answers "Yes" to this question, he confirms also that the caller was only one person.
"No, we won't tell."
"Not that I would expect that you would. Anyway, I want to know if I am accused of common nuisance."
"No, we are only checking whether this is limiting other persons's freedom."

I want to tell them "You know what? We are both switches and sometimes I pull the cart" but then I'd have to explain what exactlyponyplay is.
It is much safer to say: "Just go ask her, if she's 'limited'."
The cops laugh. They produce a notebook, type in my name and birth number, my address, and then they go ask L for the same. It is absolutely clear: "case dismissed", therefore I make one final jokesaying to L loud, while the policeman approaches her: "you know, you do not have to tell him anything, you are still at a private property". L tells the cop her data, the cops are getting to the car and leaving to chase real criminals, or in this case, the tyre burners.

Conclusion: I've given my name to Czech cops a few years ago when they tried to stop me in the middle of the night on my bicycle. I was not planning to stop, because you never know who is a cop and who only fakes it, but they were not lazy, jumped off their car and hit me with a stick, so that I fell to the ground. The reason for their interest in me (or so they told me) was to find out whether I am riding a stolen bike, or not (I was not, I was only unwilling to pay the USD 3 fine they collect when they catchyou without lights on a public road in the night). They felt they used too much force, because they only tried to harass me by requiring my name and other data, but they requested no fine from me. Typical example of how the police work in the Czech Republic looks. Anyway, I never heard of the police ever since, there were no more questions concerning the incident, and therefore I am absolutely sure that eventhis ponyplay investigation will not have any further impacts on us.

Speaking of outdoor bdsm, there will always be random passers-by, but now we know that the police cannot and wants not do anything aboutoutdoor bdsm, as long as you are not naked in front of a school in themiddle of the city. We are naked during our scenes when the weather allows it, and it is up always up to the person who passes us whetherthey look our way or the other way. We always select a location where noone can by accident run into us - the passers-by always have to notice us from a distance and then walk a few hundred meters before they reach us. In my opinion, it is then their fault when they see something theypretend they do not want to see. I respect that other's may not like seeing naked people, therefore we are always dressed when we aretraining dressage at a dressage rectangle in our garden, but that's the end of compromises. We will always play naked in the meadows (or atpremises reserved for SM play). It is good to know that bdsm is not illegal even in public - and if the police changed their mind in the future, I can report them to the protocol they created today, and also to the photos on our web site, which show me in bondage etc. I have always said that total openness is the best option. Sulky riding on public roads is legal, when you do not use the bridle. Sulky riding with harness/bridle is legal if performed on private property and if both partners consent. Isn't that great?

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